Conscience And Controversy, Tudor’s New Heritage Black Bay Chrono Chronograph

It is not too late to get to the topic. The cooperation between Tudor and Breitling interchangeable movements is the most interesting and topical event in the watch industry recently. Let’s briefly review that Breitling provided the self-produced B01 chronograph movement for Tudor. After it was adopted, Tudor named the MT5813 chronograph movement and used it on the new Heritage Black Bay Chrono chronograph. The movement, which Breitling adopted, was named B20 and used on the new Superocean Heritage II watch. Compared with Breitling, Tudor has received greater attention in this cooperation. Tudor’s use of the Breitling B01’s Heritage Black Bay Chrono chronograph has become a key topic for watch enthusiasts around the world, with support and opposition. And I naturally cannot miss this topic. I will show you the pros and cons of the Tudor Chronograph, and explain a question that many players care about, why Tudor did not use a Rolex movement. Let’s start.

A recent hot topic watch in the watch industry, Tudor’s new Heritage Black Bay Chrono chronograph, this watch uses the Breitling B01 chronograph movement, Tudor number MT5813.

The Tudor started from an outsourced movement. It is a normal thing to use Breitling movements.

   Rolex was expensive, and Tudor was born in order to let more people wear a high-quality watch. A large part of the reason Tudor is cheaper than Rolex is that Tudor uses outsourced movements. ‘Since ancient times’ Tudor has been using outsourced movements. Until 2015, Tudor launched the first self-produced movement MT5621 / 5612. We can say without hesitation that it is quite normal for Tudor to use an outsourced movement, which is the tradition of Tudor. Tudor started by purchasing an external movement; on the contrary, it is “new” for Tudor to use its own movement. From this perspective, it is normal for Tudor to use Breitling B01.

B01 chronograph movement used in Breitling chronographs.
   Tudor has a long history of outsourcing movements. After this article, I will write a special article to introduce to players the situation of Tudor’s outsourced movements “from ancient times to the present”. Now let’s take a look at the recent situation of Tudor. Prior to 2015, Tudor only used outsourced ETA movements. The Black Bay axe needle uses the calendarless ETA2824 movement; the Pelagos titanium axe ghost king uses the calendar ETA2824 movement; the Heritage chronograph cat face uses the ETA2892 movement with Dubois-Depraz timing module. After 2015, the Tudor Pelagos Titanium Axe Ghost King used the calendar MT5621 self-produced movement; the new North Flag uses the MT5621 with calendar power display; in 2016, the Black Bay axe needle began to use the MT5602 calendarless version of the machine core. Since then, a large part of Tudor’s watches, mainly axe needles, have used their own movements (note that the Black Bay 36/41 still uses 2824). Tudor now uses the MT5813 chronograph movement on the Heritage Black Bay Chrono axe chronograph, which is the B01 movement from Breitling.

Tudor’s new self-produced movement MT5621 / 5602, this is a self-winding three-needle movement.
Tudor’s industry conscience

   In the price of about 20,000 yuan, I have always recommended Tudor. Because of the quality and price of Tudor. Talking about money is a hooligan. Let’s talk about money. Because the Tudor axe needle of the self-produced movement is not known at home, we use the known foreign price as the standard. As far as I know, TUDOR’s new BLACK BAY axe needle using MT5621’s self-produced movement is only 200 euros more expensive than the ETA movement version. If you take into account the annual price increase of the watch, the actual price is less than 200 euros (less than 1492 yuan). The improvement of Tudor’s new movement MT5621 / 5612 compared to ETA is that the new movement has a power of 70 hours (only 28 hours for 2824), the use of a silicon spring (enhanced anti-magnetic capability), and a fine adjustment balance without card (enhanced accuracy). The self-produced movement is certified by the Observatory (the first time Tudor has been certified by the Observatory). The improvement is obvious. Compared with the ETA movement, we can get more watches.

Tudor MT5602 movement (left) and MT5602 movement (right) provided to Breitling, we can see a movement, but with different decorations, Breitling’s decoration is more refined.
   Let’s take a look at the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chrono axe chronograph using Breitling B01 movement. The Tudor axe chronograph with Breitling movement is currently trading at 4,440 Euros. Tudor’s current Heritage Chrono cat face chronograph is priced at 4,150 euros. After replacing the Breitling movement, the price has only increased by 290 euros (2164 yuan). The improvement achieved is that the Breitling B01 movement is an integrated chronograph movement (previously the Tudor cat face used a modular movement); a power reserve of 70 hours; the use of a cardless fine adjustment balance wheel; the use of a silicon balance spring; with an observatory certification . At the same time, because Tudor and Rolex always use a solid bottom cover, Tudor MT5813 chronograph movement (Breitling B01) can simplify some decorative polishing and further control the price. The Tudor chronograph using Breitling B01 chronograph movement, the performance indicators greatly exceed the previous Dubois-Depraz chronograph module 2892 movement.
   This is Tudor’s conscience, which has improved a lot, but it has not cost us a lot.

The Tudor MT5813 chronograph movement, that is, the Tudor version of the Breitling B01 movement, shows that Tudor has made some Tudor features to the Breitling B01 movement, replacing the balance wheel, hairspring, and automatic top.
All the controversy is focused on why Tudor used a powerful Breitling chronograph movement on the axe needle.

   When this Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chrono axe chronograph just came out at the Basel exhibition, some players also expressed different views in the period after the exhibition. Some views suggest that the Tudor Black Bay Axe Needle is Tudor’s iconic diving watch both in Tudor history and after its re-launch. Tudor now introduces the Heritage Black Bay Chrono axe chronograph, adding a lot of professional chronograph features to the diving watch. The bezel-engraved speedometer ring replaces the one-way rotating bezel dedicated to diving watches. But the dial of the watch, including the axe needle, are the signature characteristics of Tudor’s diving watch. The concentration of professional timing and professional diving does not convince these players. At the same time, some people worry that the launch of Heritage Black Bay Chrono will further intensify, the monopoly position of the axe needle series in the Tudor watch, making the tudor watch into the ‘axe needle’ single-handed situation, thereby limiting the development of other Tudor watches . Players who hold this view believe that Tudor should use Breitling movements on cat-face chronographs. Cat-face chronographs are Tudor’s professional chronographs.

Tudor MT5813 chronograph movement (left) and Breitling B01 chronograph movement (right), you can see Tudor’s adjustment of Breitling B01 movement, at a glance.
   For the above point of view, I think it makes sense. After all, the axe needle is now the most popular watch of Tudor in the world. It is logical to use a new movement on the axe needle. I also think that if the Breitling movement chronograph is launched on the cat’s face, it is indeed a very good and reasonable choice. However, considering that 2020 will be the 50th anniversary of the Tudor Heritage Chrono chronograph (cat face chronograph), Tudor is likely to be preparing for the 50th anniversary and ‘make a big move’. So there is no choice to put the new movement provided by Breitling on the cat face chronograph, which is also possible.

Tudor heritage chrono blue cat-face chronograph, some views suggest that Tudor should use Breitling B01 movement on this chronograph, not on the axe needle.
So why didn’t Tudor use Rolex’s chronograph movement?

   Breitling’s B01 movement and Rolex’s 4130 movement have a ‘blood relationship’. Breitling took away the Rolex 4130 movement development team and developed the B01 movement based on 4130. Therefore, Breitling B01 and Rolex 4130 have the same configuration and technical indicators. So since they are all ‘same’ movements, why not use the movement directly from Rolex. There are two reasons for this. One is that the direct use of Rolex movements by Tudor will greatly increase the cost of Tudor watches, thereby raising the price. The Breitling B01 movement is conducive to controlling the final price (it turns out that Tudor controls the price well). Another important reason is that the use of Rolex movements by Tudor will affect the Rolex brand value.

   From the incident of the Tudor and Breitling interchangeable movements, we can see that Breitling’s own brand positioning is higher than that of Tudor, but in this event, Tudor completely became the protagonist of the attention of players around the world. . It is no secret that in recent years, Tudor’s brand status has continued to rise, catching up with Omega, and even some popular Tudors can already rival the mainstream models of Omega. Players who are interested in Tudor, and already have Tudor players in their hands. Please keep your confidence in Tudor. The value of Tudor is rising.